Calcutta, Marwaris & the Story Behind the City’s Most Iconic Paan

Walk through the bylanes of North Calcutta, past crumbling colonial facades and the scent of simmering mishti, and you’ll stumble upon a legacy wrapped in a betel leaf—Calcutta’s iconic paan. This unassuming delicacy, often tucked behind glass counters in century-old paan shops, carries with it the flavors of history, community, and quiet opulence.

The story begins in the late 19th century, when Marwari traders from Rajasthan made Calcutta their commercial home. Drawn by the city’s booming trade under British rule, they brought with them not just their entrepreneurial spirit, but also their refined tastes. Among these tastes was the tradition of paan—not as a roadside chew, but as a curated indulgence, often layered with gulkand, cardamom, saffron, silver leaf, and rose petals.

In Calcutta, this tradition evolved. Blending Bengali love for indulgent flavors with Marwari sensibilities, a new kind of paan was born—softer, richer, sweeter, and deeply aromatic. It became a symbol of hospitality in Marwari homes and a post-meal ritual in elite Bengali households.

Today, tucked in old neighborhoods like Burrabazar and College Street, you’ll still find artisanal paanwalas who hand-roll each leaf like a sacred offering. These aren’t just paans—they’re palates of poetry, nostalgia, and heritage.

If you’re searching for authentic Calcutta paan, know this: it’s more than a treat. It’s a quiet emblem of the city’s layered identity—where Bengal met Marwar, and tradition found flavor.